Cycling The Historic Ho Chi Minh Highway

It all started with a dare from Jin. I mentioned that I was running a marathon in North Vietnam and she asked if I was bringing my road bike. Over the years, she has mentioned several times that the Central Highlands, inland from Danang, were some of her favourite places from her extensive exploration by motorcycle. Jin emphasised the new, smooth, truckless road that is the Ho Chi Minh Highway running up the spine of Vietnam. She also knows that I have a soft spot for waterfalls and there are plenty along the way. It piqued my interest, she dared me, and in May 2022 I cycled the Ho Chi Minh Highway solo from Hoi An to Phong Nha and back.

Central Highlands and the Ho Chi Minh Highway

About 50km west of Hoi An are the Central Highlands of Vietnam. A stunning range of remote, jungle-clad mountains running north to south through the centre of Vietnam. I would pack up my saddle bags and head off by bike for about ten days riding through the mountains. For nearly a week I did not meet another foreigner!

Day 1, Hoi An to Thanh My, 72.6km, 275m ascent. 

It started off on the flat plains with beautiful riverside views of rice paddies and distant mountains. By the end of the day’s ride, I’d reached those distant mountains and it was time for the first of many climbs. And just at the time of day, it was getting brutally hot. I made a mental note to start even earlier tomorrow morning.

Hunting around for a place to stay in Thanh My I avoided a guesthouse that advertised karaoke, in other words, a recipe for a sleepless night. With the help of Google Translate I arranged to stay in my first “nha nghi”, guest house. Throughout Vietnam, you can find these small, affordable guest houses. Often for only about US$5 per night. They are typically clean and functional and this one was no exception.  A local restaurant produced a delicious hotpot (I had literally no idea what was coming) and a couple of beers. Then it was off for an early night. 

Day 2, Thanh My to Ta Lang, 75.7km, 1578m ascent

Today it got real! I joined the Ho Chi Minh Highway. It is a road that runs almost the length of the country. It was built during the Vietnam War to secretly bring equipment and people to fight in the South. It, therefore, goes through very remote mountain territory. These days it is a good, smooth road with hardly any traffic at all. There were quite a few motorbikes but I’d often count the number of cars I saw in a day on one or two hands. 

The day started with a big climb up into the beautiful, misty mountains. Then another big climb later in the day. They each went on for 10 - 12kms. The scenery was stunning though and I found lovely little places to stop, first for Vietnamese coffee and then for a bowl of noodles. 

It was very hot for a lot of the ride and with the big climbs, the weight I was carrying and the heat I wondered if I would be able to complete the whole week of riding. Fortunately, towards the end of the ride, the weather cooled down and there was a refreshing shower which eased my worries. 

My goal for the day was a small ethnic minority village that apparently had a homestay. There seemed to be nowhere else in the area to stay at all so it was either that or I would have to get out my hammock and tarp I’d packed just in case. Exhausted after a big day of climbing, I crossed a rickety, narrow bridge over a river to get to the village and was met with confused faces. Time for google translate and sign language again. It turned out the homestay had been shut since COVID and hadn’t reopened. Fortunately, one of the villagers took pity on me and generously gave me a bed for the night and cooked me a simple dinner. He wouldn’t accept any money at all. 

Day 3, Ta Lang to Huong Danh Homestay, 56.94km , 971m ascent

One of the best banh mi of the trip for breakfast washed down with a strong Vietnamese coffee. Always a great way to start the day. 

Lots more hills and hot sun today! Stunning scenery though. Must be one of the most stunning mountain roads anywhere! Fortunately, I found a waterfall en route to cool off and fill up my filter water bottle. 

I arrived at a great little homestay around lunchtime. It was just what a cycle tourist needs…they put plate after plate of delicious, local food in front of me. 

It was hilarious when the owner of the homestay arrived. He had taken his father, who looked to be about 120 years old, to the hot springs that are nearby. His friends live nearby the springs and whilst his father was bathing, he’d got completely drunk with his friends! He was very merry and loud and he and his father sat down with me whilst I ate lunch. The dad was quite a sight, wrapped up in a big, old, long overcoat, gap-toothed grin and a cigarette holder. After a while, the merry son said the only two words of English I heard spoken throughout my whole stay…Chivas Regal! A bottle was produced and he spent the next couple of hours topping up my glass with whisky and talking at me in Vietnamese. Eventually, he passed out and spent the rest of the afternoon snoring incredibly loudly in a hammock whilst the rest of the family busied themselves around him preparing food. I took the chance to have a nap myself which was much needed after cycling all morning and drinking whisky all afternoon!

Day 4, Huong Danh to A Ngo, 67.8km, 476 m ascent

A slightly shorter, flatter day today before it ramps up again tomorrow. Difficult to find new words to continue to describe the amazing scenery. 

One thing that was really nice throughout the ride is that even though virtually no-one spoke English you would constantly be greeted by friendly shouts of “hello” from the locals when passing through every village. 

I found another inexpensive, clean, friendly nha nghi tonight. The teenage son even spoke a bit of English which made things a bit easier and they even did my laundry for me.

Day 5, A Ngo to Huong Phung, 92.5km, 1365m ascent

More stunning mountain and riverside scenery today. There was some light rain which was actually very refreshing. 

I passed through Khe Sanh which was a major battlefield during the war. I saw an interesting sign for a war museum and headed off the route to check it out. As well as the museum, there was a field full of kits the Americans had left behind - helicopters, tanks, planes and fully restored trenches. It made for an incredible detour. 

I arrived at my intended destination for the day to find the Nha Nghi closed. A few hand gestures from neighbours indicated that they had gone somewhere for the day and may be coming back. They tried to call for me but no answer. I sat on the doorstep for an hour and waited. With no sign of anyone coming I realised there was a small bungalow resort place nearby. I spoke to them and they had a room for me. It turned out to be a really lovely spot but certainly, the most quirky place I stayed on the whole trip. 

Day 6, Huong Phung to Long Son, 108.66km, 1693m ascent

The longest, hilliest day of the trip so far. At one point I was cycling up a mountain actually in and then above the clouds. It was about this time I passed signs warning of bears - I didn't hang around!

I could barely believe that the scenery could improve but the latter part of this ride was probably the best scenery of the whole trip with steep-sided mountain river valleys. 

The day ended at a very friendly, clean nha nghi and yet another bowl of steaming, tasty noodle soup. 

Day 7, Long Son to Phuong Nha, 100km, 1647m ascent. 

Another long and hilly day, but yet another gorgeous one. Whilst a lot of the riding on the trip had felt pretty remote and I’d often had to fill my water bottles in mountain streams, I had always found somewhere to stop for lunch and refuel. 

However, today there was nothing so I had to bust out my camping stove for the first and only time and made some instant noodles - after all the riding I’d done, they tasted like the best instant noodles I’d ever tasted!

Arriving in Phong Nha felt like a triumph, especially after 3, particularly long and hilly days. Though not before I found the steepest hill of the whole trip. I thought I had about 5km of cruising into Phong Nha and was so relieved to be nearly there but I hadn’t spotted on my map the hill that was waiting for me. It was the first and only time I had to get off the bike and walk on the whole trip. It was a killer!

I intended to rest in Phong Nha for a few days, work remotely and check out the amazing caves that are nearby. It’s the first place on my route I saw other tourists. It is on the backpacker trail so there is a bit more “civilisation”. My hotel even had a swimming pool which felt like a real luxury and great for tired legs. 

Days 8 - 10, Phong Nha

I was pleased to have a few days off, especially in such a lovely relaxing town in the hills and by the Song Con River. 

Phong Nha is known for its incredible caves and they didn't disappoint. It really is worth a trip just to marvel at these awe-inspiring places. I also went stand-up paddle boarding on the river in the early mornings, which was beautiful. Plus there were some lovely, quiet, scenic spots to catch up on work emails and calls. 

After a few days though I started to get that familiar feeling I’ve had on bike touring trips before. I become just a bit grumpy and irritable and it is difficult to put my finger on why until I remember… it’s time to be on the road again. Without fail, when I jump on my bike again the feeling melts away. 

Day 11, Phong Nha to Dong Hoi, 48.2km, 184m ascent

A shorter, flatter day today took me down out of the mountains and back to the coast at Dong Hoi. Not a bad day’s cycling by any means but coming out of the mountains and into a large town meant it didn't quite match the views from previous days.

I found a cheap and cheerful nha nghi in Dong Hoi only a few minutes walk from the beach. 

Day 12, Dong Hoi to Hue

Time was a little limited, so I had planned to take the train from Dong Hoi to Hue. I’d had no trouble taking my bike by train from Hanoi to Danang and I’d been told by a couple of people it shouldn’t be a problem here. 

However, when I got to the train station I was told my bike would have to be sent as freight and might arrive in about a week….long after my return flight to Singapore! Eventually, after pleading with them to allow me to just take the bike on board with me, they mentioned that the other alternative was the bus and they should allow me to take my bike. 

So I cycled round Dong Hoi and ended up at the wrong bus station. But was redirected to what seemed to be the right one. Google Translate helped me again and, after calls to the driver to see if it was OK to take the bike, I was on a bus to Hue an hour later and three and a half hours after that we pulled into the bus station on the outskirts of Hue. 

Cycling into Hue and passing through the gates of the ancient city was pretty amazing. I also decided to splash out a bit and find my first luxury hotel and a massage. It was very nice but I had to forego the massage as it was only after I'd checked in that they told me the spa was closed for refurbishment. 

Day 13 Hue to Lang Co, 86km, 165m ascent

A lovely although pretty flat day of cycling along the coast today. One thing that particularly struck me today was the incredibly ornate tombs that were built on the sand dunes by the coast. Some were almost like small temples in themselves.

The nha nghi I was aiming for was full unfortunately but I found a small hotel that was OK and the owner was friendly. The beach at Lang Co was lovely and I enjoyed a couple of hours there and some delicious seafood for dinner. I escaped just as the locals were getting out their karaoke machine!

Day 14 Lang Co to Danang, 40km, 459m ascent

Over the beautiful Hai Van Pass today,  described by Jeremy Clarkson on Top Gear as one of the best coastal roads in the world.  It was also my last day on the bike in Vietnam. The Hai Van pass was incredible. A decent climb, though fortunately not as big or long as some of the others I’d completed up in the mountains. The sea views were awesome and it made me a bit sad that this would be my last day on the bike. 

I arrived in Danang hungry and found a roadside banh mi and coffee before heading to my hotel. Uncle 9 was there to greet me and return my bike bag that he had looked after for me. It was great to tell him all about the ride and hearing how much I had to say made me realise how much time I’d spent alone on the bike. I spent the afternoon packing up my bike, a few beers and a final dinner before heading to the airport the next morning for my flight back to Singapore. 

Jin was, as usual, absolutely right… Hoi An and the Central Highlands of Vietnam really do have to be seen. It is rare to find such stunning scenery that is completely unspoilt and just amazing to get away from the crowds of tourists in the same old hotspots that everyone visits. I will definitely be back and I will also definitely be putting together some cycling itineraries…these empty roads are too good to miss.